Survival Fire in Wet Weather

fire thumbnailAfter taking part in some online discussions, I realised that a lot of people didn’t actually understand what feather sticks are all about. The problem became apparent under a picture showing someone batoning with their knife. As always, I took the stance defending batoning as a viable method of cutting small trees down and splitting wood.

axe in campAnd there it began. I was attacked for being a ‘Rambo’ cutting trees with a knife or waisting my time on ‘useless’ activities such as feather sticking which, as everyone knows, don’t come in handy everyday. Like most survival skills, I replied  quickly. The thing is, when they finally do come in handy, you either know what you’re doing or die.

I also received a bunch of good advices regarding lighting fires in a heavy rain or in damp conditions. These were very helpful in allowing me to compose a list of most common myths and misconceptions. It appears that most people would trust dead spruce/fir twigs, pine needles or birch bark (or that they’ve simply never seen a heavy rain in their lives). I would also add fat wood but, like the former fire starters, it also isn’t available everywhere to everyone. And that is the first big problem with those methods – they simply can’t be applied where there are no conifers and birch trees.

gransfors bruks axeThe second problem is, those methods simply aren’t fail safe. If it’s been raining heavily and we only have a few matches, chances are we will not have a fire if we decide to go for one of the above fire starters. Yes, I know. All these materials will burn when damp and some species of birch produce bark that can supposedly be lit when soaking wet. The problem is, neither I, nor millions of other people around the world have access to that birch species and I’m not so sure it works every time in all conditions anyway. Or if it’ll catch fire before I run out of matches or gas in my lighter.

camera tarp coverAs to the pine needles and twigs, they don’t work at all when properly wet. And no, you can’t dry them in your clothes if you’re dripping wet yourself. And if you aren’t soaking wet yet, it’s probably not the best idea to get purposely wet and cold in a survival situation in pouring rain when your chances of starting a fire are as low as the temperature.

If you din’t believe me, take a look at the video, in which I also show what really works every time in all weather and why it is so important that you know it.

 

Bow Drill Fire – Useful Tips and Trick

BowDrill kit

Let’s start with what this post is not supposed to be. It is not a ‘how to get your first bow drill ember’ kind of thing. It can, however, help you achieve that as well, as the tips and tricks I talk about here will make your job easier in general.

So let’s start with the spindle. From a technical point of view, it’d be best not to make it out of a small branch or a twig and rather split a larger piece of wood and carve it down to avoid having the pith running through the middle of your spindle.

Clearly visible pith in the middle of an ash branch

Clearly visible pith in the middle of an ash branch

Many species of trees tend to have a lot of pith which is softer than the rest of the stick, and will make the top of your spindle fray up very quickly as you’re drilling making the job almost impossible. You could, of course, take your time and look for a better piece of wood with less or no pith. But sometimes you can’t afford such luxury and have to work with what’s available. The problem is, splitting and carving isn’t the most energy efficient way of preparing a thin, straight stick and, unless it’s raining, it’s rather unnecessary. Especially that all it takes to make a spindle is finding a straight dead twig and shaping the ends, which unlike the first method, takes just a few minutes.

In this case, if it’s dry and we actually need to make a fire with a bow drill, it would be smart to take the easiest rout and use the first suitable stick you find. What about the fraying tip? Many people have a very good habit of carrying vaseline or other creams and oily stuff. If you don’t, I highly recommend doing it too. You can use that stuff to lubricate the tip of your spindle. Just apply a pinch to the part that will be in contact with the bearing block and it should hold up long enough without breaking up and slowing you down.

Bearing blockYou’ll notice that I mentioned a bearing block. That’s another thing that can either make the drilling smooth and simple or impossible. From my experience, unless you have no choice, you should never use wood for your bearing block. And if you really have to, at least use green wood. It won’t heat up as quickly and won’t create as much friction as dead wood, at least in the beginning. But the truth is, with rare exceptions,  wood is a poor socket material. It gets worn out quickly making the drilling an excruciatingly hard job. More over, when used as a bearing block, it tends to heat up fast and may burn your hand before you even see smoke from the proper side of your spindle.

Mora HQ Robust the ultimate survival knife

Mora High Q Robust with a coin embedded in its sheath to serve as a bow drill bearing block

Therefore, I would recommend that whenever you can, you should use something else. Look for smooth stones with natural holes in them, such as the flint stone in the picture above. If you’re near a coast, search for some larger shells. They will do a good job too. You may even use your knife or sheath if they’ve been adapted for such a task.

 

A knife with robust eyelets which can be used as bow drill bearing blocks

A knife with robust eyelets which can be used as bow drill bearing blocks

A bow drill socket can also be made from bone, antler or horn. These can sometimes be found in the forest as well as, unfortunately ubiquitous, rubbish. Pieces of glass, metal cans and even solid pieces of plastic such as bottle caps will do a better job than dead wood.

Spindle with a 'fan'

Spindle with a ‘fan’

The third and final trick is, as far as I know, a complete novelty. I call it ‘propeller‘ or ‘fan‘ and that’s exactly what it does – it fans your dust pile while drilling. What are the advantages of this solution? This little piece of cordage tied to the lower portion of the spindle really shines in still air conditions or when practicing indoors. It prevents the smoke from rising straight in your face making breathing a lot easier. It’ll also allow you to see what’s going on with your hearth board and the pile. It pretty much makes it possible to tell if you can stop drilling already.

Another important thing is oxygenating the pile. Sometimes when there’s absolutely no wind, you will be producing a lot of smoke but no ember. This usually means your pile is not receiving enough oxygen. This little fan will provide that while at the same time it is gentle enough no to blow your dust away. It’s also pretty cool to watch it work 🙂