Bow Drill Fire – Useful Tips and Trick

BowDrill kit

Let’s start with what this post is not supposed to be. It is not a ‘how to get your first bow drill ember’ kind of thing. It can, however, help you achieve that as well, as the tips and tricks I talk about here will make your job easier in general.

So let’s start with the spindle. From a technical point of view, it’d be best not to make it out of a small branch or a twig and rather split a larger piece of wood and carve it down to avoid having the pith running through the middle of your spindle.

Clearly visible pith in the middle of an ash branch

Clearly visible pith in the middle of an ash branch

Many species of trees tend to have a lot of pith which is softer than the rest of the stick, and will make the top of your spindle fray up very quickly as you’re drilling making the job almost impossible. You could, of course, take your time and look for a better piece of wood with less or no pith. But sometimes you can’t afford such luxury and have to work with what’s available. The problem is, splitting and carving isn’t the most energy efficient way of preparing a thin, straight stick and, unless it’s raining, it’s rather unnecessary. Especially that all it takes to make a spindle is finding a straight dead twig and shaping the ends, which unlike the first method, takes just a few minutes.

In this case, if it’s dry and we actually need to make a fire with a bow drill, it would be smart to take the easiest rout and use the first suitable stick you find. What about the fraying tip? Many people have a very good habit of carrying vaseline or other creams and oily stuff. If you don’t, I highly recommend doing it too. You can use that stuff to lubricate the tip of your spindle. Just apply a pinch to the part that will be in contact with the bearing block and it should hold up long enough without breaking up and slowing you down.

Bearing blockYou’ll notice that I mentioned a bearing block. That’s another thing that can either make the drilling smooth and simple or impossible. From my experience, unless you have no choice, you should never use wood for your bearing block. And if you really have to, at least use green wood. It won’t heat up as quickly and won’t create as much friction as dead wood, at least in the beginning. But the truth is, with rare exceptions,  wood is a poor socket material. It gets worn out quickly making the drilling an excruciatingly hard job. More over, when used as a bearing block, it tends to heat up fast and may burn your hand before you even see smoke from the proper side of your spindle.

Mora HQ Robust the ultimate survival knife

Mora High Q Robust with a coin embedded in its sheath to serve as a bow drill bearing block

Therefore, I would recommend that whenever you can, you should use something else. Look for smooth stones with natural holes in them, such as the flint stone in the picture above. If you’re near a coast, search for some larger shells. They will do a good job too. You may even use your knife or sheath if they’ve been adapted for such a task.

 

A knife with robust eyelets which can be used as bow drill bearing blocks

A knife with robust eyelets which can be used as bow drill bearing blocks

A bow drill socket can also be made from bone, antler or horn. These can sometimes be found in the forest as well as, unfortunately ubiquitous, rubbish. Pieces of glass, metal cans and even solid pieces of plastic such as bottle caps will do a better job than dead wood.

Spindle with a 'fan'

Spindle with a ‘fan’

The third and final trick is, as far as I know, a complete novelty. I call it ‘propeller‘ or ‘fan‘ and that’s exactly what it does – it fans your dust pile while drilling. What are the advantages of this solution? This little piece of cordage tied to the lower portion of the spindle really shines in still air conditions or when practicing indoors. It prevents the smoke from rising straight in your face making breathing a lot easier. It’ll also allow you to see what’s going on with your hearth board and the pile. It pretty much makes it possible to tell if you can stop drilling already.

Another important thing is oxygenating the pile. Sometimes when there’s absolutely no wind, you will be producing a lot of smoke but no ember. This usually means your pile is not receiving enough oxygen. This little fan will provide that while at the same time it is gentle enough no to blow your dust away. It’s also pretty cool to watch it work 🙂

Hand Drill Fire – There is a Trick

Hand DrillWe don’t know which method of primitive fire making came first. Most likely we’ll never know for sure. We can’t even say if it was a friction or percussion method. Most scientists, I know about, that researched this topic seem to believe the first fire started by a human-like species must have been made using the hand drill.

Some of those scientists claim this is a very easy way of making fire, and give examples of people from various primitive cultures, who are supposedly able to get an ember in 10 seconds. Maybe. If you are in a hot dry environment and happen to have some of the best possible materials with low combustion threshold. I suspect most people interested in learning this method live in a bit less favourable conditions and don’t have those supper materials to hand. Not to mention those guys lived in the late 19th century and would’ve mastered their skills possibly for decades as that was the only way of starting a fire they knew.

Hand Drill kitLet’s get this straight. Hand drill is not easy. It’s not like the bow drill where you can take two random pieces of more or less dry wood and make it work. Especially in places like the UK where rain is the norm rather than exception and temperatures are generally not very high. If you’ve never done this before expect your hands to hurt. A lot. You’ll get blisters which may burst and bleed. Your skin will then come off, your muscles and bones will hurt too and you’re out for days before you even got your first ember. Does that sound easy to you?

You can, of course, get a coal the very first time if you have someone experienced make the kit for you and then watch you and tell you what to do. Needless to say, this is not the same as doing it all and succeeding by yourself. Plus, even if you do succeed with somebody’s help, there is a good chance you’ll still mess up your hands.

So in this sense, there is no trick. You have to practice your coordination, stamina and thicken you skin just like you would when learning to play guitar – practising gradually longer and longer. But you can do all that, make your spindle and hearth board from the best materials available in your area and still fail. The trick to solving that problem is patience.

First of all focus on each task as if there is nothing else to do. Don’t think about the notch before you burn the pieces in. Don’t wait for the ember if you haven’t even seen smoke yet. One thing at a time and it’ll come. And remember – if you’re sweating, you’re doing something wrong.

The Spindle
The spindle I used in the video below, is made from a cattail or bullrush (Typha) stalk. I absolutely love to use them for hand drill as they are already perfectly straight, usually have the right diameter and are relatively soft which is good for your hands. They also work quite well with many types of hearth board materials, and grow almost everywhere in the world where there is a bit of water. The perfect length for me is between 50 and 35 cm (20 and 13″) and diameter between 6 and 10 mm. Because they are soft, they do get worn Hand Drill smokedown quickly and a stalk of less than 30 cm will be difficult to use. Therefore, I tend to make a compound spindle consisting of a thicker piece with one end hollowed out (about and inch into the stalk) and reinforced with sinew, and a removable short piece which takes all the beating.

The Hearth Board
Outdoor Hand DrillThe type of hearth will depend on what the spindle is made from. For a cattail spindle it’s good to use something soft. In the video, I used a piece of long-dead poplar. Willow, slightly punky birch or even pine, spruce and ivy will work too. The hearth cannot be too thick. There won’t be as much dust as in the case of a bow drill kit, and your board has to be appropriately thiner. One centimetre (0.4″) works best for me.

The Notch
If everything is dry, you’re getting a lot of smoke but the ember just isn’t forming, there’s probably not enough oxygen. The hand drill notch has to be perfect. It shouldn’t be too wide or your spindle will bore its way out of the socket ruining everything seconds before the ember formed. It can’t be too narrow because the dust needs to be able to come out freely and your ember will need oxygen to start glowing.

There is one trick I learned from a guy who calls himself Mr Wilson, and haven’t seen anywhere else. He once showed me how to increase friction when marrying  the pieces together by adding a pinch of sand under the spindle. Works great and reduces the time needed to char the spindle tip and the board.