How to turn your old Mora High Q Robust into ‘The Ultimate Survival Knife’

Thanks to a few pretty simple changes to the sheath of this Mora knife you will be able to use it as a “bow drill booster” and light a fire even if you’ve lost the attached ferrocerium rod. All you need to survive the critical 72 hours is your modified Mora knife.

Mora HQ Robust TUSK

 

The first thing to do is to remove the stud that all the old Robusts have. I didn’t use it anyway. Then, you’ll need to hammer a small dent in a little coin, heat it up over a gas stove and press it in to the sheath where the clip used to be. Needless to say, your knife should be out of the sheath as you’re doing this and you shouldn’t be handling the hot coin with bare hands. Use a pair of pliers. Make sure the coin is rather thick and on the heavy side. Otherwise, it will quickly overheat and melt both the sheath and your knife’s handle. You may also reinforce it with glue if it doesn’t feel too robust. That’s your bearing block ready.

Now, we move to the para cord wrap. Not much to explain here. Just wrap four – five feet of para cord around the sheath and secure it with two pieces of bicycle inner tube as shown in the picture above. These will serve three purposes. First, they secure the para cord, which I’ve already mentioned. They will also hold your fire steel pretty firmly – that’s another important survival feature added at a very low cost and with very little effort. They can also be used as a fire starer as they’ll burn for quite some time even if you’ve just pulled yourself and the knife out of a river.

And that is pretty much it. Doesn’t take that long but adds a great deal to the overall functionality of your inexpensive knife. You may wish to watch the video to see how it works in practice. Have fun.

Mora Companion Black vs Hultafors Craftsman’s Knife

Carving and test cuttingI seem to have a problem with stainless Mora knives. I broke one after abusive testing last year. Then (or maybe it happened first), the brand new cutting edge of another stainless Mora bulged out while carving a piece of green elm. I’ve never had any of this happen to me before or after with any other knife. Sounds like a good reason to test this steel again and compare it to another cheap stainless steel on a very similar knife – Hultafors Craftsman’s Knife.
Mora and Hultafors SS-2

I took the hardest, most knotty piece of dry blackthorn to prove that Mora’s stainless warps on hard wood and stainless Hultafors does not. And I failed. Well, at least partially (no pun intended). The Mora did not bend like I expected (I had convexed the edge very slightly though). Neither did the other knife. The whole carving test didn’t last more than 10 minutes but it already revealed something I suspected. Both edges started to dull and the edge of the Mora seemed to like the treatment less than the Hultafors.

It’s true, the difference is very slight at this stage. But given more time it gets more and more obvious. I just didn’t have two hours to show a completely blunt knife to prove it. I have done that, however, while carving and the results and my perception were similar. Mora starts skimming the surface of the wood much sooner. In fact, I’ve never got any of my Hultafors knives that dull.

So, what is that super stainless steel used on Hultafors knives? In the video below, I admitted I didn’t know that at the time. I do now. And just like in the case of their high carbon steel choice, I was quite surprise again. Hultafors Group answered me on their Facebook page saying, for their stainless knives they use AUS-8. That’s right. The same steel Cold Steel likes to use and the same steel the famous Ontario Rat – 1 is made out of.

Ontario Rat 1 closeup

So I suppose, that’s another thing Hultafors and Cold Steel have in common. Both these companies make use of relatively inexpensive Japanese steels (SK-5 and AUS-8) and they do it very well. Knowing what stainless steel I’ve been so impressed with, and that chemically, it’s not much different from 440 A, I’m really convinced that heat treat makes all the difference, although I must admit, I’m not sure how that works with stainless steel. Especially that many people, myself included, have complained about edge holding of the RAT – 1. I found it a bit ‘chippy’ at first. I guess the very slight strop convexing did the trick again. Nevertheless, I never had these problems with any of my stainless Hultafors knives, which left me even more surprised.