After the abusive field test and pull ups, it’s time to restore the edges of the Mora Robust Pro and the Hultafors Heavy Duty.
There are numerous ways and sharpening systems available. However, none of them will be perfect and suitable for all the different blade types and designs.
People are generally unable to maintain an angle while sharpening, therefore, we inevitably create edges which are more or less convex. To avoid that, we invented various useful devices, which hold a knife, as well as the sharpening stone, at a fixed angle. One of such devices is the Lansky Deluxe Knife Sharpening System (in the picture above), which allows us to create those perfect, razor v-shaped cutting edges.
The problem with such edges is, as shown in the test, that they are fragile. They tend to chip, roll and dull quicker than convex edges. Yes, they cut better but is it really noticeable in a day-to-day use of a utility knife? Take a look at the video below, where I show how a strong convex edge push cuts paper towel. Do you really need your bushcraft/survival knife to be sharper than that? I know I don’t.
Therefore, for my bushcraft or EDC knives I tend to use other sharpeners and save the Lansky System for special occasions. If I’m out in the field, I might use a simple double sided DC4, which can bring your edges to hair popping sharpness even without a strop. It’s small and lightweight which makes it easy to transport. I might also use an even smaller, lighter and simpler diamond pen rod, which also works well, although, it seems to require a strop as it is much coarser.
Those are great in the field but at home their, otherwise advantages, small size, makes them quite inefficient and less safe. It takes more time to remove steel with such a small sharpener, plus it’s easier to cut yourself when you have to manoeuvre round small surface with a large sharp object.
For me the choice is simple. At home I use water stones grit 400 to 3000, followed by a home-made strop. While they are a bit a pain to use as they need to be soaked in water for several minutes before use, they get worn out and need to be evened up every now and then, and the whole process of sharpening can be a bit messy, they are still the best option for more serious home sharpening. Why? They’re relatively inexpensive, they don’t have moving parts (easy to use and can’t break unless you drop them on the floor), don’t require extra special equipment, are large enough but not too large, and do not determine your sharpening angle, which allows you to slightly convex your edges if you choose to do so.
An outstanding share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a coworker who has been doing
a little homework on this. And he actually ordered me breakfast simply because I found it for him…
lol. So allow me to reword this…. Thanks for the meal!!
But yeah, thanks for spending some time to talk about this subject here on your web page.
Thank you for post 🙂
I disagree somewhat on your statement on v vs convex edges. As far as I understand this (but I don’t give anything on my own expertise since I am a bloody beginner in all this funny crafts! ;)) … it’s all about the angle of the final cutting bevel in the end when it comes to toughness vs. sharpness. It doesn’t really matter too much on which path the blade gets there. But then it is the same way back for the chip of wood after it has been cut which can make a difference in smoothness of motion and resistance of material, like with axe iron shapes the typical thinning cutters or v-shape splitters.
I also disagree slightly on what you say about mechanical guides to keep the right angle. In woodworking they are often used regardless of wether folks are capable of doing the job free handed, but simply to be able to have reproducable results. They would experiment with various angles on primary and secondary (micro) bevel until they find the perfect one for the tool and what they want to do with it, pin that down in a notebook and can be pretty sure to get the exact same result next time the bring their chisels and plane irons to the stones. This is important for perfectionists and also practically indispensable for those fine woodworkers who need high precision, like instrument makers for example.
But I do not want to sound like all anti and critique, apart from minor details this video was enormously instructive and fun to watch, as is pretty much all your stuff to me. I mean it, really good stuff there and thank you for that!
Thanks. Of course I’m not an expert. I just say what I see and I’m not surprised when some people have different experiences and opinions 🙂
Szymon, czy skóra, której używasz do polerowania jest pokryta pastą polerską/ lekko ścierną, czy jest to czysty kawałek skóry?
Simon, the leather You used for polishing… Is it covered by polishing paste/ delicate scrathing, or is it clear piece of leather?
W czasie pisania tego posta, skóra nie była niczym pokryta. Obecnie używam białej, “agresywnej” pasty. Przeciągam jedynie dwa – cztery razy, żeby wygładzić większe zadziory ale nie zepsuć agresywności cięcia.